Just Back From … Italy’s Puglia Region

The Florence of the South
"Many of Italy’s enchanting cities have become overrun with tourists, but Lecce feels authentic, offering a genuine sense of place without the crowds. Nicknamed the ‘Florence of the South,’ the city has an elegant yet friendly feel and the Baroque architecture is spectacular. It’s extremely walkable with lovely streets, lively piazzas, Roman ruins, artisan shops, and excellent dining options. The way the city glows at sunset is captivating and I highly recommend experiencing it with an aperitivo from a rooftop.”  

A Perfect Seaside Town
"Otranto is made up of narrow, winding, whitewashed lanes with one charming shop or trattoria after another. There’s a promenade along the waterfront, lined with spirited outdoor cafes and bars. Locals bask in the sun, cruise from the marina, and fish off the pier. The water is utterly spectacular—a vibrant turquoise that resembles Caribbean hues. This is a place made for relaxing, but if you’re looking for some history, check out the remarkable 12th century Tree of Life mosaic floor in Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata.”

An Absolute Gem of a Hotel
“There’s one very good reason to visit the village of Bernalda in the Basilicata region: the Palazzo Margherita. Built in 1892 by the Margherita family, it was purchased in 2004 by Francis Ford Coppola, whose grandfather was born in Bernalda. The restored 19th century palazzo has only nine suites so it feels less boutique hotel and more like the villa of a wealthy relative you wish you had—total low-key luxury. We had a magical dinner in the garden and took a fun pasta-making class, but the most memorable experience was a private screening in the elegant screening room-salon. You select your movie and with the touch of a button, the screen comes down and the chandelier retreats into the ceiling. The collection of movies, which of course features Coppola films, is curated by the famous director himself, and during our stay he was seen snacking in the kitchen and wandering about the garden.”



The City of Ceramics
“You should only visit Grottaglie if you love ceramics. And if you do, wow, what an experience! The area is surrounded by small caves and ravines, where clay is abundant. As early as the 13th century, the locals started making ceramics and the tradition still thrives today. With over 50 ceramic studios and shops, a visit can be a little overwhelming, but now I know all the secrets! We visited the famous Ceramiche Nicola Fasano and were given a tour of the workshop by Nicola himself. The process remains largely handcrafted and watching the skill and speed of the artisans up close was amazing. Fortunately, the shops all offer shipping so you don’t have to feel limited by the size of your carry-on luggage. From Fasano, I chose several platters and serving pieces in the region's traditional splatter design, as well as a beautiful large, lidded piece decorated with pomegranates. And at another shop, I chose some sculptural pieces in a whitewash glaze.”



Ricotta That Has Ruined All Other Ricotta
“In Puglia, the town of Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its unique trulli—whitewashed, dry-stone houses with conical roofs. Yet my favorite experience there was visiting a traditional masseria where they raise cows and produce incredible cheeses. These were some of the happiest, cleanest cows I’ve ever met! We tried their fresh ricotta (which has ruined all other ricotta for me) and heavenly burrata which tasted like nothing we get here. The milk there is minimally processed, has a higher fat content, and you eat the cheese within hours of it being made. We also learned how to make and tie fresh mozzarella, which was easier than I thought it would be. The day ended by sampling an extensive selection of their cheese, accompanied with rosé wine also produced at the masseria.”



The Best Focaccia on Earth
“Galatina wasn’t on our itinerary, but we had a great guide who knew we’d appreciate this authentic spot. The highlight is expected to be the 14th century Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria and its beautiful frescos. They were impressive, but my favorite memory of the day was tasting the best focaccia known to man. A very close second was trying the town’s famous pasticciotto, a warm pastry, filled with silky custard—they are surprisingly heavy for their size. We also loved our curious visit to a small museum that’s preserving the ritual of tarantismo, a folk tradition of music and dance that’s believed to cure the bite of a tarantula!”